Pipe Filters

Can I use filters in any pipe? Or does it require a specific kind of pipe?

In order to use pipe filters of any kind (balsa, charcoal, paper, etc.), the pipe must be designed specifically to accept filters. This means the pipe must have a "filter chamber" bored into the airway. This is nothing more than an enlarged area of the shank or stem were a filter can be placed during the smoke. Standard bore pipes do not have such a chamber and cannot accommodate filters.

                 Images sources: talkingtobacco.com tobaccoblends.com.au delnobilepipe.com

Also, different companies and craftsmen design their pipes to accept filters of different sizes. The most common filter diameters are 6mm and 9mm. The lengths of filters varies depending on the type of filter. Many pipes that have filter chambers that will accommodate filters from various companies. For example, Savinelli pipes are designed to use Savinelli's famous "Balsa System" filters, but the pipes will also accept Dr. Grabow brand paper filters. (The balsa system is far superior, in my opinion, but in a pinch it's good to have options.)

Most online pipe shops clearly indicate whether or not specific pipes use filters. The vast majority of pipes sold in the United States are non-filtered pipes. So as a general rule, if a listing doesn't specifically say the pipe uses filters, it probably doesn't. However, in European countries, filter pipes are far more popular and even required by law in some countries.

Thorough Pipe Cleaning Tips

Pipes need a basic cleaning after every smoke, but some need a more thorough cleaning. Recommendations.

         Pipe caking gone wrong!

        Image source: www.brothersofbriar.com

After every 10 to 20 smokes (depends on the pipe and type of tobacco I smoke in it), I perform the following cleaning regimen:

1. Use bristle pipe cleaners dipped in alcohol (Rum or Vodka work very well, or you can also use 91% isopropyl alcohol) to thoroughly scrub the shank and stem of your pipe. Make sure you remove any tar residue or other build up. This is what makes a pipe taste "sour."
2. If the cake is becoming too thick, you should also carefully ream the bowl so the cake is about the thickness of a dime. If the cake gets too thick, it not only reduces the size of the tobacco chamber, it can actually damage your pipe by causing it to split the briar. (Note: If you completely ream the bowl and remove the entire cake, you will need to "break in" your pipe again. This isn't a problem for the pipe, but many smokers do not like to go through the process again.)
3. Use a dry microfiber cloth to clean and scrub the outside of the bowl. If there are deep stains, you can very lightly wet the microfiber cloth to help it clean better. But don't get the briar overly wet, since this is not good for the wood. 4) If you have carbon build-up or light charring around the rim, you can use a cotton swap dipped in alcohol to loosen and break up the carbon. Then wipe with a cloth. (But be careful! The alcohol can remove stain or cause it to fade.)
4. If there are metal bands or accents on your pipe, use a microfiber cloth to clean them. If necessary, carefully apply an appropriate metal polish to remove tarnish and restore lustre. (Again, be careful! Such polishes can damage the briar.)
5. If possible, buff the entire pipe and stem with a fresh coat of carnauba wax (this requires a buffing wheel). If you don't have a buffing wheel, check with your local tobacconist. They may be able to wax your pipe for just a few bucks. If this can't be done, simply rub your pipe with soft cloth to restore as much shine as possible. Some folks use furniture polish, but I do not recommend this for pipes. The chemicals in the polish can actually damage the wood and may produce strange aromas when the pipe becomes hot from smoking.

When performed periodically, as needed, these procedures will ensure that your pipe looks and tastes great!

Draft Hole Position and Pipe Quality

How important is draft hole placement in regard to a pipe's smoking quality?

The proper function of a tobacco smoking pipe is actually a composite result of several factors. This often makes it difficult to determine how much effect any one of those factors may have on the overall smoking characteristics of a particular pipe. Things like the quality of the briar, the shape/design of the pipe, the diameter and accuracy of the draft hole, the size of the tobacco chamber, and so on all contribute to how well a pipe will perform. Add to these things variables such as tobacco type and moisture content, weather conditions, and the skill of the individual smoker, and it becomes even more challenging to identify a specific cause for a good or poor smoking experience.

         Draft hole placement with the pipe cleaner test

        Image source: forum.pipes.org

But one of the critical factors is the drilling of the shank and the placement of the draft hole. These are major factors that influence how well a pipe smokes. Since combustion in the tobacco chamber requires proper air flow, it is essential that the hole be drilled in such a way to best facilitate the movement of air. Ideally, according to most pipe craftsmen and experienced smokers, the draft hole should enter the bowl directly centered and at the very bottom of the bowl. In the vast majority of cases, this seems to provide the most effective combustion and effortless draw. However, as noted above, there are other factors at work, so even a pipe with less than perfect drilling can be a great smoking instrument or vice versa.

As with many "rules" about pipe smoking, I tend to favor a pragmatic approach, rather than a dogmatic approach. I do not mean to say that "everything goes" or that "nothing matters." But I don't let the supposed rules arbitrarily decide the issue. In other words, even though conventional wisdom says such-and-such about the placement of the draft hole, I do not discount a particular pipe with imperfect drilling until I've actually smoked it several times. If it smokes poorly, perhaps the poor drilling is at fault. But if it smokes well, it may be that other factors have compensated adequately and the "rule" can be ignored.

I think too often in this hobby, the smoker is intimated by all the "experts" out there who insist on bullying everyone with their advice and pseudo-wisdom. In the end, it's all about the personal enjoyment of the experience. I've seen many folks smoking absolutely horrid looking pipes that defy all the commonly accepted rules of engineering or aesthetics. And yet, they are smoking their pipes with a smile on their faces. So who am I to tell them they shouldn't enjoy that bowl because the pipe isn't perfectly crafted or since it doesn't exhibit flawless grain?

In the end, it's far more practical and simple. If the pipe works, and you enjoy it's use, then puff away. If the pipe has irritating qualities that lead to frustration and diminished enjoyment, then throw away!

Peterson's P-Lip

What is a "P-Lip" mouthpiece?

The "P-Lip" (or more formally, the "Peterson-Lip") is an innovation developed by the Peterson of Dublin pipe company in an effort to create a more comfortable stem tip or bit that would help prevent tongue bite. It works on the simple principle of redirecting the smoke away from the tongue toward the roof of the mouth. For those who suffer from a sensitive tongue, this seems like an especially desirable thing, and many report a satisfying experience with pipes equipped with a P-Lip stem.

         A Peterson's P-Lip Pipe Stem

A Peterson's P-Lip Pipe Stem Compared to a regular pipe stem

                   Peterson System explained

Isopropyl Alcohol and Pipe Cleaning

Isopropyl alcohol is poisonous. Shouldn't it be avoided when cleaning or sanitizing pipes?

This is a valid concern. And I should point out up front, that I am not a chemist or physician. But here is my take on the matter.

Isopropyl alcohol, also known as rubbing alcohol, is normally used for topical application. It is toxic when taken internally in sufficient amounts (e.g., if one were drinking it as though it were vodka). However, the trace amount that possibly would be present when used to clean or sanitize pipes is not enough to cause concern.

         Image Source: www.pic2fly.com

Of course, one shouldn't saturate his pipes continually with large amounts of isopropyl alcohol. But using tiny amounts to effectively clean and/or sanitize a pipe should not cause a problem. In fact, one reason I like to use isopropyl alcohol is because it evaporates quickly and completely, leaving no discernible residue. If minuscule traces of alcohol do remain in the pipe after you let it dry, it's possible that one might detect the smell and taste of alcohol. But even here, if the pipe were smoked, the residue would quickly evaporate or burn off from the heat of combustion. But in my understanding, any negligible amount of isopropyl ingested in this fashion--especially if you're not inhaling--is absolutely harmless.

As a simple example, if isopropyl fumes were harmful in such tiny amounts, then one would suffer toxic effects from simply opening the bottle and catching that initial strong whiff.

Now having said all that, I should also point out that there is absolutely nothing wrong with using Everclear or other consumable spirits to clean your pipes. I have used vodka and rum upon occasion with very good results. The downside is that it is much more expensive than simple rubbing alcohol.

Alcohol to Clean or Sanitize Pipe

What type of alcohol should I use when cleaning or sanitizing pipes?

I use different types of alcohol for different purposes. For thorough cleaning, sterilizing, and sanitizing, I prefer to use medical grade Isopropyl Alcohol, which is 91% alcohol. It's extremely potent, evaporates quickly, provides a very high level of purity, and really does a great job.

For slightly less intense needs, such as light cleaning or even for "sweetening" a pipe, I occasionally use Rum 151. This is very high quality (and somewhat expensive) rum with 75.5% alcohol. This also has a strong sanitizing effect, but the sweetness of the rum helps eliminate any potential medicinal tastes that may be produced by the Isopropyl alcohol.

Lastly, for occasional pipe maintenance and sweetening, I have used Vodka (50% alcohol) or lower quality Rum (40% alcohol). These do a great job for basic monthly cleanings and also have a moderate sanitizing effect.

If you prefer not to use alcohol at all, there are numerous commercial "pipe sweetening" products available from many tobacconists and online pipe shops.

Resting a Briar Pipe

Is it really necessary to rest the briar between smokes?

Although I am not rigid about it, my own general practice and recommendation is to smoke only one bowl per pipe per day (although I don't smoke a pipe every day). I do not hold this view out of some strange allegiance to tradition or the so-called "rules" of pipe smoking. Instead, I believe allowing a pipe to "rest" or dry for at least twenty-four hours produces the best tasting smoke and provides the safest care for the pipe.

• If you choose to repeatedly smoke the same pipe on the same day, here are a couple general tips to help keep things tasting sweet and to protect your pipe from damage:
• If you must smoke the same pipe repeatedly, try to let it rest for at least an hour or two between smokes. That way the briar can "catch its breath," so to speak. The short rest period won't let the briar dry completely, but it will help reduce gurgling and nasty flavor during subsequent smokes. And run a pipe cleaner through the stem several times right after each smoke to absorb any standing moisture.
• Try smoking tobaccos that tend to burn drier and avoid multiple bowls if the weather conditions are particularly humid. Although moisture is an inevitable byproduct of combustion, these things help reduce moisture build-up after each smoke.

         Image source: ignatescu-manea.ro

The key is to avoid smoking an excessively wet or hot pipe. This is what causes stress to the wood. When the pipe gets too wet, you will know. The heel of the tobacco chamber will be soaked (not just damp) and the pipe will gurgle more than usual. Lots of moisture will also be present in the shank and stem. All of this will contribute to nasty tasting smoke, uncomfortable tongue bite, and excessive stress on the wood, which can potentially lead to cracks and such. At this point, it's time to set the pipe aside and let it rest for several days to ensure adequate drying.

Also if you smoke a pipe more than once in a day, the pipe will need special attention when cleaning. I recommend using a bristle pipe cleaner dipped in alcohol or pipe sweetener to really scrub the shank and stem after the day's worth of smoking. Of course, be sure to let the pipe cool completely before removing the stem. But if the pipe isn't thoroughly cleaned, it will sour more rapidly than normal due to the greater than normal build-up of tar and other residue.

Brylon Pipes

What is Brylon or a Brylon pipe?

In 1966, S. M. Frank developed a synthetic material called Brylon as an alternative to briar. The material is a high temperature resin mixed with wood flour. It was less expensive than briar, and supposedly more resistant to cracking, chipping, charring and burnouts.

         Image source: ebay.com

However, many pipe smokers do not care for the material and cite several drawbacks to Brylon pipes.

• It is heavier in the mouth.
• It heats up more rapidly than briar.
• It lacks the beauty and character of briar.

In other words, the chief objection to Brylon is that "it isn't briar"!

Two lines of Brylon pipes were briefly tried in Kaywoodie, Marmont and Impulse brands, but they were abandoned in the late 1980's. However, millions of Brylon pipes have been sold in the past several decades and they continue to be part of the Yello-Bole and Medico product lines, in case you are interested in buying one of these. Personally, I'd rather smoke bad cherry wood than Brylon, while a cheap corn cob pipe suits my portable needs perfectly.

Using Savinelli Balsa Filters

How do I use Savinelli Balsa Filters?

Savinelli Balsa filters are very simple to use, but they require a pipe designed to work with filters. On such a pipe, instead of the normal draft (air) hole in the tenon of the pipe, you will find a larger "filter chamber" where the filters are inserted. Most of Savinelli's pipes are designed to work with the Balsa System, but the balsa filters can be used with filter pipes from other companies as well.

                  Image source: haddockspipeshop.com

To use the filters, simply take one of the triangular shaped balsa filters and insert it into the filter chamber of the pipe. Then insert the tenon (stem) into the shank of the pipe as you normally would. Fill the bowl with your favorite tobacco and enjoy! That's all there is to it.

The filter is designed to absorb moisture, tar, and other impurities that are present in the smoke. This occurs when the smoke passes through the filter as you smoke; there's nothing special that you need to do.

When you are finished smoking, and after your pipe has cooled down, you should remove the filter and clean your pipe as usual. Some folks allow the balsa filter to dry and then reuse it several times. I prefer to use the filters only once, but that is a personal choice. If you do reuse the filters, they should be discarded after they start to turn color from absorbing tar and other impurities from the smoke.

                 Image source: pfeifenkonsulat.at

Many filter pipes are also "convertible," meaning they can be smoked without filters by using a small "converter tube" instead. The converter is merely a small cylindrical tube made of vulcanite or acrylic. It should be inserted into the filter chamber of the tenon just like a filter would be. If a pipe designed for filters were smoked without a balsa filter or converter tube, the large diameter of the filter chamber would allow too much airflow through the pipe. This would create several problems, such as increased combustion temperatures (causing painful tongue bite and possibly leading to pipe burnout) or promote excess condensation (causing pipe gurgle). The converter tube simply reduces the diameter of the filter chamber to be like that of a normal "non-filtered" pipe.

For additional information about the Savinelli Balsa Filter System, click here.

Savinelli Balsa System

What is the Savinelli Balsa System?

The Savinelli Balsa System is an ingenious and easy to use filtering system for tobacco pipes. It was developed by Achille Savinelli and the Savinelli research team. They first conceived the idea of using nature's most absorbent wood to do two things:

• It would absorb any moisture that might travel beyond the confines of the pipe bowl, and
• It would have a cooling affect on the smoke as it traveled around this unique absorptive material.

         Image Source: savinelli.it

Extensive testing verified that no matter what type of tobacco one used or how "hot" one tried to smoke a pipe, tongue bite was dramatically reduced and moisture was trapped by the balsa filter instead of passing to the mouth. Further testing also showed that the Balsa insert had properties that retained tar and nicotine that might be present in some tobaccos. For example, both by the EURATOM Research Center of Ispra (Italy) and the CHEMICAL & ENVIRONMENTAL TECHNOLOGY Inc. Research Center (USA) both conducted independent studies with very positive results: "..the filter has the ability to absorb 77% of the nicotine and 91% of the tar contained in tobacco without altering the flavour of same."

In order to accomodate the balsa filter, a new type of tenon (the part of mouthpiece that goes into the end of shank of the pipe) was developed. But at the same time, Achille Savinelli insisted that his customers have the freedom to use or not use the revolutionary system as they chose. So, a converter or adapter consisting of a simple tube was designed to be used when the smoker decided he did not want to use the new balsa system. The small tube is simply inserted into the end of the tenon instead of a balsa filter and the pipe smoked just like any other non-filtered pipe. (The small tube is necessary to reduce the size of the airway so the pipe doesn't burn too hotly.)

Savinelli Balsa Filters (6mm)

Pipe Gurgle and What to Do About It

Why does my pipe "gurgle" (or why am I such a "wet" smoker), and what can I do about it?

There are a variety of factors that contribute to the irritating problem of "pipe gurgle" or an excessively "wet" smoke. In general, gurgling is caused by moisture and saliva that build up in the shank and stem. Moisture is an unavoidable byproduct of combustion and the water vapor will accumulate as you smoke your pipe. As you draw air through the draft hole, it reacts with the moisture. It's sort of like blowing bubbles. The gurgling is annoying but harmless to your pipe. However, getting a mouthful of nasty tobacco juice, tar, and spit can really foul up your day! Excessive moisture can also contribute to tongue bite and reduce the flavor of the tobacco. (The drier the smoke, the more flavor you will detect.)

         Image source: pipesmokersforum.com

One common reason that one pipe will gurgle more than another has to do with the size (diameter) of the draft hole in the shank and stem. If the diameter of the draft hole is too small, the droplets of moisture that build up will more readily interfere with air flow and create a gurgling effect. Pipes with larger draft holes tend to have less problems because there is more room for air to pass without having to effect the moisture. That's not to say that a larger drilled pipe can't gurgle, but the chances of it being a problem are decreased significantly.

Pipe shape can also contribute to the moisture problem. For example, if the shape is such that moisture more readily collects in the shank, instead of draining to the bottom of the bowl, "gurgling" and "spitting" will more easily result.

Smoking in cold weather may also contribute to excess moisture. This is because the greater contrast in temperature between the pipe and the outside air increases the amount of condensation that occurs. Also, heavier breathing and more rapid respiration during a cold weather walk, for example, could produce a higher level of moisture in the stem, which would also contribute to gurgling. Even a pipe that ordinarily doesn't gurgle may become a real bubbler during a cold weather smoke.

If you have severe gurgling problems, you may also want to try a different tobacco. Some heavily-cased aromatic tobaccos are often the culprit in creating an excessively wet smoke. While burning, they produce large amounts of moisture that collects in the bottom of the bowl.

There are several easy solutions to wet or gurgling pipes. These tips may not prevent the moisture from developing, but they provide simple ways of dealing with it.

• During the smoke, run a fluffy pipe cleaner through the stem and shank when gurgling occurs. Do not remove the stem while your pipe is hot! Simply run the pipe cleaner in through the bit end as far as it will go and then remove it. This will absorb any standing moisture and helps reduce or eliminate the gurgling effect.
• Another easy technique for dealing with pipe gurgle is to cover the bowl with your fingers (to prevent ashes and debris from flying all over) and blow gently but steadily into the stem for a few moments. This pushes the moisture out of the stem/shank and down into the heel of the bowl where it will no longer present a problem during the smoke.
• My favorite method for dealing with excessive moisture is the pipe flick. Simply grasp the pipe by the bowl, covering the tobacco chamber with the palm of your hand. Now quickly flick the pipe (be careful not to let go!) several times. This expels any moisture that has built up in the shank or stem of the pipe. Repeat as needed.

Get Rid of Estate Pipe Bad Smells

How can I get rid of the nasty smell in an estate pipe?

Under normal circumstances, one or more treatments of the salt and alcohol method will remove most of the offensive "ghost" odors and stale smells from a pipe bowl. But do not neglect to clean the inside of the shank. In my experience, this is often overlooked (or done poorly) by many estate pipe refurbishers.

         Image source: pipesmagazine.com

However, there are some cases where the smell cannot be completely eliminated from a pipe. This is especially true if the pipe was heavily used or if the original smoker preferred strong tobaccos. If the wood has been deeply saturated with tobacco oils, it may be nearly impossible to remove the odor completely.

If the smell is not unbearable, you may find that simply smoking your own favorite blends in the pipe will replace the unpleasant odors over time.

Cork Knocker for Pipe

What is a cork knocker and what is its purpose?

The "cork knocker" is simply a small, round-shaped piece of cork. It is used by pipe smokers to help remove "dottle," or unburned tobacco, from the bottom of the pipe bowl after smoking.

Since a pipe can be easily damaged by tapping it against a hard surface, the cork knocker provides a soft, yet firm, surface that is safe for the pipe. By gently tapping a pipe against the cork knocker, it helps to dislodge the dottle and keep their pipe clean. The cork knockers are often fastened into ash trays for convenience, but they can be used anywhere the smoker wishes.

Champaign corks are excellent cork knockers. You can easily screw one or glue it on your favorite ashtray.

                          Image Source: mccranies.com

Coating Pipe and Stem: Is Olive Oil a Good Alternative?

Should I use olive oil to coat my pipe bowl and stem?

I recommend against using olive oil. But as with many things, there is some difference of opinion about using olive oil on pipes. Some report they have coated their bowls and stems for years with no problems at all. But manufacturers of wood products strongly advise against using anything containing fats (particularly animal fats) on wood since the fats can have numerous adverse effects, including detiorating the wood itself over time.

Beyond that general comment, there are several specific reasons I prefer not to use olive oil on my pipes:

• Olive oil (or any vegetable oil) can turn rancid or mold over time. This will produce a nasty smell and a foul taste.
• Even if it doesn't go sour, olive oil can impart a subtle taste to a smoke when applied to the stem. This isn't a problem if you like the flavor, but many prefer to avoid any changes to the taste of the tobacco.
• Olive oil can burn if applied heavily enough. The chances of this occurring are quite rare, but it is something worth noting.
• If used on virgin briar (i.e., briar without stain or wax), olive oil will cause the wood to become very dark as the pipe is smoked. Obviously a dark colored pipe is nothing bad, but some may not be aware of this effect.

         Image Source: tabakhaus-balster.com

Instead of coating your pipe with olive oil, it is best to use carnauba wax, which protects and adds a nice shine to the pipe. The difficulty with carnauba wax is that it requires a buffing wheel for proper application. But do not despair. Many tobacconists offer free or low cost buffing services. If you don't have a buffing wheel or a local tobacconist that offers this service, there are several products available you can use. Below are a few examples of excellent products to help you maintain your pipes. These are available online from a variety of sources; just do a Google search for the product name.

• Arango Briar Pipe Wipe
• Stanwell Impregnated Pipe Care Cloth
• Denicare Pipe Briar Polish
• Denicare Mouthpiece/Stem Polish
• Brebbia Pipe and Stem Polish