Sanitizing an Estate Pipe Stem

Is there a quick and easy way to sanitize an estate pipe stem?

With this article I want to focus on the cleaning aspect of what I already talked about in my article on pipe stem sanitizing.

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When I refurbish pipes for myself or others, hygiene and safety is of the highest concern. For this reason, I go through several steps to thoroughly sanitize a stem or mouthpiece. But depending on the condition of the stem, there is a simple method, which I will describe here.

You will need some high-quality alcohol. In order to have a sterilizing effect, the alcohol content must be above 50%. I prefer to use Isopropyl Alcohol that is 91% alcohol. This ensures a "medical grade" sanitizing effect and evaporates quickly. It is also much less expensive than grain alcohol. You will also need some pipe cleaners and a small container in which to soak the stem.

• First, clean the stem by removing any debris and residue (tobacco bits, tar build-up, nicotine residue, etc.).
• Second, dip a pipe cleaner in the alcohol and run it through the stem. I recommend doing this several times and "scrubbing" as necessary. Bristle pipe cleaners work great for this step.
• Third, soak the stem in a bowl or container so that the stem is completely covered by the alcohol. I recommend soaking it for about 15 minutes (or longer if necessary to dissolve residue). If the alcohol discolors during the soak, that means tar and other residue were being dissolved by the alcohol. If this occurs, discard the alcohol and scrub the stem with some more pipe cleaners. Then fill the container with fresh alcohol and perform the soak again. This way you are ensured of a truly clean and sanitized stem.
• Once finished with the soaking. Simply rinse the stem in cold water and dry it off. It should now be completely sanitized!

Pipe Buffing Machine

What kind of buffing machine to use for working on pipes

When I first began pipe crafting, I did all my work by hand using sandpaper, micro mesh pads, and so on. But after a while, I definitely saw the benefit of a good buffing machine. But wishing to save money, I bought an inexpensive buffing machine from eBay. It was actually a jeweler's polisher made by Rand with a "no load" motor and 4" wheels.

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Although the Rand machine was functional, I would say that it was barely adequate for pipes. It worked moderately well for applying carnauba wax, but it was atrociously under-powered for any real polishing. For example, because it is a no-load motor designed for use with delicate jewelry, it could not sustain the necessary pressure to remove oxidation from a stem or to actually polish wood for refinishing, etc. The Rand served my purposes for a short while, but it quickly became apparent that it was not going to do the job long term.

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Since I recondition estate pipes on a regular basis, I ended up purchasing an industrial strength buffing machine. It's not the top of the line model, but it is a top of the line brand: Baldor. According to my research, Baldor makes some of the best buffing equipment in the world, and the six inch, 1800 RPM model I own is fantastic! Of course, it cost substantially more than the Rand, but it was well worth the money. (The Rand was around $50; the Baldor around $300.)

Sanitizing Estate Pipe Stems

Is it really necessary to sanitize the stems of estate pipes? How do you sanitize a pipe stem?

Because personal hygiene and safety is important to me, I strongly recommend a thorough cleaning and sanitizing for all estate pipes. Not only is it much safer, but it will result in a more enjoyable smoke.

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Used pipes, no matter how well they were cared for, always tend to have carbon, tar, and other residue in the bowl, shank, and stem. This can adversely affect the pipe in a variety of ways. For example, the draw of the pipe may be difficult because of restricted airflow. This would result in a poor smoking pipe that frustrates more than it rewards. An unclean pipe also dramatically affects the taste of the smoke since you'll be picking up the "ghost" flavors from the tobacco smoked by the previous owner. I've received some estate pipes that looked fine on the outside but that were utterly disgusting on the inside. The shanks were befouled with dripping, oozing residue, and the draft/air hole was completely cemented solid with tar. Others have had filters in them that must have been used for a million smokes. They were completely black and turned to dust when I removed them.

Simply sanitizing a stem will certainly help, but it won't necessarily eliminate all the other potential issues. But to sanitize a stem, I recommend using a high-quality, medical grade Isopropyl alcohol. It should have an alcohol content of at least 70%, but I recommend even higher if possible. This will kill any bacteria, molds, etc. and ensure a sanitizing effect. Before soaking the stem, I strongly encourage you to scrub the airway or draft hole with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in the same alcohol. When the pipe cleaner comes out perfectly clean, you're ready for the sanitizing alcohol soak. Fill a small bowl or container with enough alcohol to submerge the stem and let it soak for at least several hours. It's true that the alcohol will do it's job killing germs in less time. But I prefer to soak stems longer to help loosen up and dissolve any residue that may be coating the inside of the draft hole. Periodically during the soak, pull the stem out and run a pipe cleaner or two through it to help remove any residue that is being dissolved or dislodged by the alcohol.

Typically, when I refurbish estate pipes, I do additional cleaning and sanitizing steps on the stems. One such step involves chlorine bleach, which also removes oxidation on vulcanite stems. But this produces a chemical reaction that will make the stem rough to the touch and requires sanding and polishing to restore the shine. If the stem is not properly protected, the bleach will also dissolve trademark logos or even erode the tenon enough to make it fit loosely into the mortise/shank. The point is, some pipes may need additional steps to make them enjoyable to smoke.

For those who do not wish to do the work themselves, there are professionals that would be happy to provide refurbishing services. Fees start around $25.00 per pipe, and vary depending on the condition of the pipe and exactly what work they'll be performing

Thorough Pipe Cleaning Tips

Pipes need a basic cleaning after every smoke, but some need a more thorough cleaning. Recommendations.

         Pipe caking gone wrong!

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After every 10 to 20 smokes (depends on the pipe and type of tobacco I smoke in it), I perform the following cleaning regimen:

1. Use bristle pipe cleaners dipped in alcohol (Rum or Vodka work very well, or you can also use 91% isopropyl alcohol) to thoroughly scrub the shank and stem of your pipe. Make sure you remove any tar residue or other build up. This is what makes a pipe taste "sour."
2. If the cake is becoming too thick, you should also carefully ream the bowl so the cake is about the thickness of a dime. If the cake gets too thick, it not only reduces the size of the tobacco chamber, it can actually damage your pipe by causing it to split the briar. (Note: If you completely ream the bowl and remove the entire cake, you will need to "break in" your pipe again. This isn't a problem for the pipe, but many smokers do not like to go through the process again.)
3. Use a dry microfiber cloth to clean and scrub the outside of the bowl. If there are deep stains, you can very lightly wet the microfiber cloth to help it clean better. But don't get the briar overly wet, since this is not good for the wood. 4) If you have carbon build-up or light charring around the rim, you can use a cotton swap dipped in alcohol to loosen and break up the carbon. Then wipe with a cloth. (But be careful! The alcohol can remove stain or cause it to fade.)
4. If there are metal bands or accents on your pipe, use a microfiber cloth to clean them. If necessary, carefully apply an appropriate metal polish to remove tarnish and restore lustre. (Again, be careful! Such polishes can damage the briar.)
5. If possible, buff the entire pipe and stem with a fresh coat of carnauba wax (this requires a buffing wheel). If you don't have a buffing wheel, check with your local tobacconist. They may be able to wax your pipe for just a few bucks. If this can't be done, simply rub your pipe with soft cloth to restore as much shine as possible. Some folks use furniture polish, but I do not recommend this for pipes. The chemicals in the polish can actually damage the wood and may produce strange aromas when the pipe becomes hot from smoking.

When performed periodically, as needed, these procedures will ensure that your pipe looks and tastes great!

Isopropyl Alcohol and Pipe Cleaning

Isopropyl alcohol is poisonous. Shouldn't it be avoided when cleaning or sanitizing pipes?

This is a valid concern. And I should point out up front, that I am not a chemist or physician. But here is my take on the matter.

Isopropyl alcohol, also known as rubbing alcohol, is normally used for topical application. It is toxic when taken internally in sufficient amounts (e.g., if one were drinking it as though it were vodka). However, the trace amount that possibly would be present when used to clean or sanitize pipes is not enough to cause concern.

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Of course, one shouldn't saturate his pipes continually with large amounts of isopropyl alcohol. But using tiny amounts to effectively clean and/or sanitize a pipe should not cause a problem. In fact, one reason I like to use isopropyl alcohol is because it evaporates quickly and completely, leaving no discernible residue. If minuscule traces of alcohol do remain in the pipe after you let it dry, it's possible that one might detect the smell and taste of alcohol. But even here, if the pipe were smoked, the residue would quickly evaporate or burn off from the heat of combustion. But in my understanding, any negligible amount of isopropyl ingested in this fashion--especially if you're not inhaling--is absolutely harmless.

As a simple example, if isopropyl fumes were harmful in such tiny amounts, then one would suffer toxic effects from simply opening the bottle and catching that initial strong whiff.

Now having said all that, I should also point out that there is absolutely nothing wrong with using Everclear or other consumable spirits to clean your pipes. I have used vodka and rum upon occasion with very good results. The downside is that it is much more expensive than simple rubbing alcohol.

Alcohol to Clean or Sanitize Pipe

What type of alcohol should I use when cleaning or sanitizing pipes?

I use different types of alcohol for different purposes. For thorough cleaning, sterilizing, and sanitizing, I prefer to use medical grade Isopropyl Alcohol, which is 91% alcohol. It's extremely potent, evaporates quickly, provides a very high level of purity, and really does a great job.

For slightly less intense needs, such as light cleaning or even for "sweetening" a pipe, I occasionally use Rum 151. This is very high quality (and somewhat expensive) rum with 75.5% alcohol. This also has a strong sanitizing effect, but the sweetness of the rum helps eliminate any potential medicinal tastes that may be produced by the Isopropyl alcohol.

Lastly, for occasional pipe maintenance and sweetening, I have used Vodka (50% alcohol) or lower quality Rum (40% alcohol). These do a great job for basic monthly cleanings and also have a moderate sanitizing effect.

If you prefer not to use alcohol at all, there are numerous commercial "pipe sweetening" products available from many tobacconists and online pipe shops.

Get Rid of Estate Pipe Bad Smells

How can I get rid of the nasty smell in an estate pipe?

Under normal circumstances, one or more treatments of the salt and alcohol method will remove most of the offensive "ghost" odors and stale smells from a pipe bowl. But do not neglect to clean the inside of the shank. In my experience, this is often overlooked (or done poorly) by many estate pipe refurbishers.

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However, there are some cases where the smell cannot be completely eliminated from a pipe. This is especially true if the pipe was heavily used or if the original smoker preferred strong tobaccos. If the wood has been deeply saturated with tobacco oils, it may be nearly impossible to remove the odor completely.

If the smell is not unbearable, you may find that simply smoking your own favorite blends in the pipe will replace the unpleasant odors over time.

Pipe Rim Cleaning

How should I clean the rim of my pipe?

Whenever possible (with your own pipes, for example), I recommend preventative maintenance as the best course of action. After each smoke, wet your thumb with saliva and rub it around the rim of your pipe until it is clean of any residue or darkening that occurred during the smoke.

But if things got away from you, or you're working with estate pipes, there are several common products that work quite effectively at cleaning up a dirty rim.

For carbon build-up and mild charring, try using a microfiber cloth and saliva. I know, it sounds gross, but spittle works very well at breaking down the carbon.

I've also had good success using the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser cleaning pads, or some similar product. Gently scrubbing the outer bowl and rim gives it a decent cleaning in most cases, but you must not scrub too vigorously or you will remove stain.

For thick build-up on the rim of your bowl, you can also use a sharp Xacto hobby knife to carefully scrape the rim and remove minor burns or carbon build-up.

Keep in mind, with all these methods, it is still possible to remove stain and discolor the wood, so be patient, work slowly, and be careful.

For more serious charring or burn marks, the only way is to sand the wood and refinish the bowl. Refinishing a pipe isn't necessarily difficult, but it can be very time consuming, and you must have the right type of stain. (Never finish a pipe with varnish or lacquer; it prevents the wood from properly "breathing." Instead, use an alcohol soluble stain, then polish and coat with carnauba wax.) Also, unless you are very experienced with such things, it can be difficult to match the original stain color, which may devalue the pipe, according to many collectors.