Repairing Chips and Dents in Pipes

Can chips and dents in pipes be repaired?

Yes, most of these types of issues can be repaired. Such repair work is often referred to as a "fill" or "patch." Most commonly, the repair is done with a compound made of wood dust and various binders that help adhere the "putty" to the pipe.

            Image source: rebornpipes.wordpress.com

If you decide to go ahead with repairs, there are many expert craftsman with outstanding reputations for quality work. They should gladly provide a quote for such a repair. Depending on the extent of the damage and who does the work, the cost should be quite reasonable.

"Lakeland" Tobaccos

What are "Lakeland" tobaccos?

I've never smoked any of them, but Lakeland tobaccos are produced by Samuel Gawith and come in a variety of different blends.

             Image source: firecured.blogspot.com

Lakeland is a region in England where Samuel Gawith company produces pipe tobacco and snuff. Many of Gawith's original snuff products, and now many of their pipe tobacco blends, are known to have a distinct soapy or floral aroma. The aroma isn't overpowering, and most claim it doesn't really have any effect on the flavor of the smoke. It's just their signature smell, so as to speak.

Pipe Filters and Health Risks

Do pipe filters and similar devices reduce health risks and make smoking safer?

First, let me be clear that I am not an expert on smoking related diseases or cancer prevention. As to what constitutes "high" risk versus "low" risk, I am simply not qualified to say. If you have particular health concerns about smoking, I recommend speaking to your doctor.

It's important to acknowledge that all forms of smoking and tobacco use involve certain risks and health hazards. However, even if all the risk cannot be eliminated, there are several things that smokers can do to reduce dangers. Reducing the frequency and duration of smoking, smoking milder tobaccos, and using filters can help. But just reducing risks doesn't mean pipe smoking is "healthy" or "good for you." (Ironically, the 1964 Surgeon General's report indicated that pipe smokers who did not inhale actually lived longer than non-smokers and those who did inhale lived about as long as non-smokers! Some speculate this is because pipe smoking helps relieve stress, which is an aid to overall health.)

Now on to the question about pipe filters and reducing health risks.

On the one hand, we could note that filters have done nothing to make cigarette smoking healthier. In fact, some evidence indicates that filters have caused more harm for cigarette smokers. This is because filters impede access to tar and nicotine, which will cause a habitual smoker to unconsciously draw more deeply in order to obtain what his body craves. Also, the filters can cause a false sense of safety, which makes people feel free to smoke more frequently. These things combine to actually produce greater health risks.

On the other hand, testing and practical experience do seem to indicate that certain risks associated with smoking can be reduced by using filters and other similar devices.

For example, the patented Savinelli balsa filtering system has been tested both by the EURATOM Research Center of Ispra (Italy) and by the CHEMICAL & ENVIRONMENTAL TECHNOLOGY Inc. Research Center (USA) with very positive results: "..the filter has the ability to absorb 77% of the nicotine and 91% of the tar contained in tobacco without altering the flavour of same." Another great features of the Savinelli pipes with the filters system, is that the pipe can be smoked with or without the filter by using a simple converter or adapter tube that comes with each pipe.

As for the paper filters by companies such as Medico or Dr. Grabow, I have not seen any documentation or read any studies that present actual statistics or data. However, I can tell you that the paper filters work on the simple principle of breaking up the smoke as it passes through the filter. Nicotine, tar, and other irritants are trapped in the cellphane covered, absorbent paper (similar to the balsa wood in the Savinelli system. The fact that the filters turn brown (or darker) when used indicates that they are doing something. This is also true of the Denicool Pipe Crystals, which turn black during smoking demonstrating that they are absorbing some of the tar, nicotine, and juices produced during combustion of tobacco.

While smoking in any form is not healthy, it is fair to point out there are many things in life that are not good for us, but we still do them because we enjoy them. That's not a reason or excuse, of course, but simply an acknowledgement that all people take calculated risks throughout their lives. For example, eating at McDonald's can contribute to high cholesterol, obesity, and other serious health problems. Millions are addicted to coffee and drink it daily, even though the effects of caffeine (a stimulant) has adverse impact on health. Tens of thousands suffer from high blood pressure, but they still eat salt in high quantities, which dramatically increases various risks for cardio and vascular problems.

Having said all that, let me say again that I am no expert on these health issues. I try to stay informed so I can make reasonable decisions about my own practices. Where there are risks, I do whatever I can to minimize those risks, including using filters on many of my pipes. For those who find their consciences plagued about health concerns, I would suggest not smoking at all. Smoking is a pleasure to be savored, not something to force upon yourself if you have legitimate concerns. The bottom line is that we must take responsibility for our own lives and the choices we make.

Is Your Tobacco Moist or Dry?

How can you tell if your tobacco is too wet or too dry?

Although not a very scientific approach, I recommend the "pinch test" as a simple method for determining whether or not your tobacco is too wet, too dry, or just right. Read more about moisture in tobacco pipe.

            Image source: electricfreeze.com

1. Take a pinch of tobacco with your thumb and first two fingers. Squeeze it gently and then let it go.

2. If it stays together in a clump for more than a second or two, it is too wet and needs to be dried before smoking.

3. If you let go of the pinched tobacco and the clump falls apart or expands loosely, it is about just right.

4. If it feels crunchy or crispy and will not pack at all into a clump, it is too dry and needs to be rehydrated before smoking.

Pipe Tobacco Moisture Level

What is the ideal moisture level for pipe tobacco? Or does it really matter?

Unlike cigars, which experts agree should be kept within a humidity range of 68 to 75 percent, pipe tobacco isn't so easily pegged. The difficulty is due to the wide range of tobacco types and blends, the smoking qualities of different pipes, and even the different preferences of individual smokers.

         Image source: gizmodo.com

Even though it is difficult to identify a universal moisture level for pipe tobacco, most pipe smokers agree that when tobacco gets too dry or too wet, it is less enjoyable to smoke.

When tobacco is overly dry, it has a tendency to burn too easily and quickly. This produces an excessively hot smoke, which reduces the flavors and can create uncomfortable temperatures in the mouth. Although less common, a pipe that is burning too hot can also lead to burnout or other damage.

Conversely, when tobacco is too moist, it burns poorly and the pipe goes out frequently. This often causes the smoker to puff harder and draw deeper, which is a sure-fire recipe for tongue bite. The excess moisture can also cause a pipe to gurgle (a bubbling sound caused by moisture buildup in the shank and/or stem). Excess moisture, just like excessive dryness, also diminishes the flavor or taste of the tobacco.

As I mentioned above, the various types of tobacco and different blends may require varying levels of moisture for an optimum smoking experience. So you'll probably have to do some experimenting to find the right combination of factors for your own personal habits and pipes. But finding a balance that avoids either extreme of too dry or too moist is worth the trial and error.

Filling a Pipe

Are you having difficulty packing or filling your bowl using the Three-Layer Method? I can offer some suggestions and advice.

This is truly one of the most difficult things for new pipe smokers to learn. But on the other hand, let me encourage you not to be overly concerned with getting it perfectly. It is something that you will learn with practice and your skills will improve over time.

Please also keep in mind that the "Three-Layer Method", although an excellent way to fill your pipe, is not the only way it can be done. There are several other methods that are equally valid and useful. So if you're having trouble with the Three-Layer Method, perhaps you should try one of the other techniques, such as the "Frank Method" or "Air-Pocket Method".

             Image source: pipesmagazine.com

It's also important to note that each type of tobacco cut (cube, ribbon, flake, etc.) requires a slightly different method for packing the bowl in order to burn properly. Furthermore, each pipe will also have its own unique characteristics that affect precisely how the bowl should be filled. And lastly, every individual smoker has their own style for smoking that may require attention when preparing a pipe to smoke.

Since filling the bowl with tobacco involves several tactile matters (packing firmness, testing the draw, etc.), it is very difficult to convey the precise details in writing, but here are some general tips that may be helpful:

• The goal of properly filling the bowl is to keep the tobacco steadily burning during the smoke and to ensure the draw is smooth and easy. Nothing more, nothing less.
• Rough cube cuts should be packed firmly.
• Flake cuts should be packed with medium firmness.
• Ribbon, shag, or mixed cuts should be packed with a firmness that leaves a slight "springiness" or "mushiness" to the tobacco.
• If your pipe continually goes out, you may have packed your bowl too tightly. This doesn't allow enough air flow to keep combustion occurring.
• If you get lots of tongue bite or your pipe burns too hotly, you may have packed your bowl too loosely. This allows too much air flow and causes the tobacco to burn more rapidly than is desirable.
• When smoking, remember to puff or "sip" the pipe in a slow, gentle manner. Do not puff frantically or forcefully.

Finally, remember that pipe smoking is often called the "art of patience." While it's not rocket science, it does take a while to develop the basic skills and ability to appreciate the various aspects of the hobby. It may take some time and practice, but if you stick with it, you will learn to enjoy and even cherish this rich, peaceful art.

Pipe Tobacco Expiration Date

How long will tobacco keep? Does it have an "expiration date"?

Unfortunately, there is no "one size fits all" answer. There are many factors that affect the shelf life of tobacco: type of tobacco, type of storage container, climate, etc.

            Image source: nccultureblogger.wordpress.com

In theory, if properly stored in airtight containers, out of direct sunlight, tobacco can be successfully stored for a great many years. Some tobaccos, however, do not age well and may not maintain their desirable flavor over time.

Of course, sealed tins will keep longer than open tins. But in most situations, if you have good quality storage containers, you shouldn't have any trouble storing even opened tobacco for months at a time or longer.

If you are concerned about keeping your tobacco fresh, I would definitely invest in some good bail jars or something similar. (You may want to read my brief comments about tobacco storage at the links provided above.)

Thoughts on Churchwarden Pipes

Why I love churchwarden pipes

I love churchwarden pipes. There's something wonderful about the long, slender stem that adds a real touch of grace and style to the pipe. A finely-crafted churchwarden is a beautiful pipe indeed.

          A churchwarden pipe from my own collection.

But they're also a real pleasure to smoke. Because of their length, they cannot be held by mouth alone; you must hold the pipe. For this reason, they are absolutely perfect for relaxing in a comfortable chair while reading a good book, chatting with friends, or watching TV.

Some believe the long stem also helps the pipe to smoke cooler. This is because the smoke travels farther before it reaches your tongue/mouth and has an opportunity to cool a bit. Like all pipes, if smoked improperly, even a churchwarden will fry your tongue. But all things being equal, they provide a cool, comfortable, and flavorable smoke (with any pipe, a cool smoke = more flavor.

Due to the extra work and material involved in crafting the stem, most new churchwarden pipes sell for over $100. Of course, depending on the maker and style of the bowl, they can be much more expensive than that. You may be able to find a churchwarden estate pipe, but in my experience, they are harder to locate. Also beware of estate churchwardens that haven't been properly cared for. Because of the cooling effect of the long, slender stems, tar buildup is often more pronounced in churchwarden pipes. If not regularly and thoroughly cleaned, the stem can become very nasty, and because of the length, they can be difficult to clean and sanitize.

Storage Containers for Pipe Tobacco

What is the recommended storage container for pipe tobacco?

You're probably finding out that the little zip lock baggies, folder over pouches, and even the tins in which tobacco is sold simply do not keep tobacco fresh for very long.

There are various approaches to tobacco storage and "cellaring", i.e., the long term storage of tobacco. I won't go into great detail here, other than to say that the best way to store tobacco depends on a number factors, such as tobacco type, desired length/time of storage, and financial considerations, i.e., how much you can afford to spend. Here are some basic thoughts and recommendations for you.

Short-Term Storage

Inexpensive plastic containers, such as Tupperware, Rubbermaid, or Ziplock Reusable are easy to obtain and work acceptably for short-term storage. However, plastics and acrylics often have a "chemical" odor that can affect the tobacco over time. If the container has a strange odor, it will likely impart an unpleasant smell or taste to your tobacco. Also, these materials do not trap odors as well and can leave your home/room smelling like tobacco. That may not be a bad thing, but others in the home may not approve!

Long-Term Storage

In light of this, glass is the best material for storing tobacco. Jars made of glass are a bit more expensive, but they are definitely the preferred choice. They impart no odors or tastes to the tobacco, they are not air-permeable, and they are easily washed and reused.

Of course, an air tight seal is desirable. Air acts with moisture to create mold, mildew and other nasty funk. The best jars for an air tight seal are probably "bail jars". These jars typically have a rubber or silicon gasket and a metal clasp that locks down to seal the lid. Unfortunately, bail jars can be quite expensive. Occasionally one can find them on sale for very reasonable prices. I recently purchased some excellent glass bail jars for $2.49 (small size) and $3.99 (large size) each. But either way, it is an investment in protecting your tobacco, which can be quite expensive itself.

Mid-Term Storage

If bail jars are simply too expensive, the next best thing for every day storage, but not necessarily for long term storage, are the standard glass jars often found in stores like Walmart, Kmart, etc. These "push top" jars are made of glass and have plastic or silicone flanges on the lid that create a seal when pushed on. They're nearly air tight (but not perfectly so) and do a great job keeping tobacco fresh for many months. These are the types of jars that I use for much of my current tobacco rotation. They're available in a variety of sizes and are very reasonably priced, ranging from $2.00 to $8.00 depending on size.

Some also like to use standard Mason jars for storing tobacco. These jars are made of glass and have screw-on lids with a gasket seal. These can also work quite well, but the small openings can make it awkward to reach the tobacco.

Smoking Entire Pipe Bowl to The Bottom

Should I smoke the entire bowl all the way to the bottom?

I was having a conversation with a fellow pipe smoker yesterday and the "smoking a pipe to the bottom" matter came up. I've had this conversation with many pipe smokers, and there are several arguments on both sides of the chasm. My approach is a relaxed one, but if you feel like you have to do burn your tobacco to the bottom, here is a way to do it: smoking pipe to the bottom. But if you want my take on it, please keep reading.

         Image source: ehow.com

Some insist that all the tobacco MUST be burned to ash all the way to the bottom of the bowl. Others, like myself, are content to smoke the pipe until it is no longer pleasant or enjoyable (or until I run out of time!). If that means I burn every bit of tobacco to a fine gray ash, excellent. But if I stop while the bowl still has tobacco remaining, so be it.

Since there are good and practical reasons to stop a pipe at any given stage of the smoke, I tend not to establish hard and fast rules about such things. I realize this more relaxed approach frustrates some who desire a clear-cut, check-list type of approach. But it fits very well with my own philosophy about pipe smoking. For me, the pipe is a peaceful, relaxing pleasure to be savored and not a burdensome task to be completed according to a bunch of rules.

Of course, there are some practices that should be avoided and others that are worth learning and perfecting. But as I often say, there is no "right" or "wrong" method for enjoying your pipe. Simply do what works for you and brings you the most pleasure from the hobby.

Smoking Full Bowls or Small Bowls?

When time is limited, should you pack a full bowl and relight it throughout the day or should you pack only small bowls that are smoked entirely?

            Image source: cigarsmokersland.com

My recommendation would depend largely on the type of tobacco being smoked (and, of course, your own personal preferences). Some tobaccos work very well on a relight; the flavor and aroma seem relatively unaffected by sitting in the pipe for a while after being partially smoked. With these tobaccos, packing a full bowl and smoking it in increments throughout the day should work just fine. You'll need to experiment with relighting your favorite blends to see how they taste, but I recommend at least dumping out the ashes between relights.

For tobaccos that do not respond well to relighting, such as those that produce a nasty "ash tray"-like flavor (or worse), I recommend going the small bowl route. That is, just pack enough into the bowl for the time you have and smoke it up. I do this frequently when I have limited time. Even if the tobacco would relight well, I sometimes do not wish to carry around a partially filled pipe.

In either case, I recommend simply doing what works best for you. There's no "right" or "wrong," but only the practical matters of convenience and enjoyment.

Rehydrate Dry Pipe Tobacco

How to rehydrate tobacco that is too dry

Some time ago I wrote on how to dry tobacco that is too moist. However, the majority of tobacco pipe smokers have the opposite problem.
Every pipe smoker has encountered difficulties with a tobacco that gets dried out. Tobacco without enough moisture tends to burn too easily, resulting in an excessively hot smoke. This diminishes flavor and causes other unpleasant side effects, including the possibility of pipe burnout.

There are perhaps countless ways that smokers have devised to rehydrate their tobacco. Below I present two very simple methods recommended by various experts for giving your tobacco a "moisture adjustment."

Method 1
(This method is advocated by Greg L. Pease, Master Tobacco Blender; it's also my own favorite method)

1. Put the dry tobacco in a bowl.
2. Wet a towel until it is saturated but not dripping wet. (Preferably use distilled water in order to avoid contamination from bacteria or other substances.)
3. Place the towel over top of the bowl, but don't allow it to touch the tobacco.
4. Check the tobacco every several hours.

            Image source: christianpipesmokers.net

Method 2
(This method is advocated by Per Georg Jensen of Mac Baren Tobacco)

1. Open the tin or pouch and place it in a plastic bag.
2. Bring a kettle of water to the boil.
3. When steam starts to form, hold the opening of the plastic bag over the steam. Make sure that the steam goes inside the bag. 5 seconds of steam into the pouch will be enough.
4. Knot the bag closed and allow to stand for about one hour.
5. The tobacco in the bag will absorb the moisture.
6. After about one hour the tobacco will have regained its original moisture level.

            Image source: www.puff.com

Bulldog and Rhodesian Tobacco Pipes

What is the difference between a "Bulldog" and "Rhodesian" shape?

Pipe shape classifications are not absolute. Many pipe makers and pipe companies simply use their own naming conventions and have unique standards for classifying pipes. Also, in different parts of the world, pipe shapes sometimes are referred to a bit differently than they are in the USA.

But there actually is some debate about the distinction between a "Bulldog" and a "Rhodesian" shape.

Almost everyone agrees that the quintessential, classic bulldog shape has a straight diamond shank, a tapered diamond stem, and the bowl is tilted forward a few degrees. The bowl shape is like two cones joined together at the base with the "point" of the top cone cut off. Most classic bulldogs also have one or two grooves carved into the bowl where the two cone shapes come together (although some bulldogs do not have these grooves).

Classic Bulldog Shape (Diamond, Straight Shank)

Image Source: www.smokershaven.com

Classic Rhodesian Shape (Round, Bent Shank)

Image Source: www.puff.com

Bulldog or Rhodesian? (Diamond, Bent Shank)

Image source: www.smokingpipes.com

The controversy begins when the shank/stem are bent (instead of straight) or rounded (instead of diamond-shaped). Some feel that any bulldog-shaped bowl with a bent shank/stem is automatically a Rhodesian. Others, like me, distinguish between the shapes based upon the shape of the shank, whether or not the pipe is bent or straight. While this notion does not rise to the level of a "law," I believe it is the most common way of distinguishing the two shapes.

In the end, each pipe maker, collector, and enthusiast will make his own determination. But for me, a bulldog always has a diamond shank and a Rhodesian always has a rounded shank, regardless of straight or bent shank.

Meerschaum Pipe Advantages (if any!)

Do Meerschaum-line briar pipes offer any particular advantage over regular briar pipes?

            Image source: thepipesmoker.wordpress.com

Because it does not contain any saps or resins like briar, Meerschaum does not typically impart a flavor to the smoke or alter the taste of the tobacco. By lining a briar pipe with this silicate mineral, one is supposedly able to more directly experience the true taste of the tobacco. However, many smokers actually prefer the subtleties and nuances of flavor contributed by their briar pipes. Additionally, as it is smoked, briar absorbs oils from the tobacco over time, which can actually increase the amount of flavor during a smoke. (This is why may smokers prefer to dedicate specific pipes to specific tobacco blends.)

Meerschuam pipes are definitely wonderful smoking instruments, and I have several in my own collection. But I prefer to keep the two materials separate and enjoy the qualities of each material on its own.

Covering a Tobacco Pipe while Smoking

Why do pipe smokers occasionally cover the bowl with their fingers while puffing on their pipes?

         Image source: news.bbc.co.uk

There are two basic reasons for this practice:

1. If the bowl begins to grow cool, or if the tobacco ember is beginning to weaken, a classic means of keeping the pipe burning is to quickly introduce air by "carbureting" the bowl. This is what you often see smokers doing when they cover the bowl with their fingers while puffing. By covering and uncovering the bowl while puffing more robustly than usual, a repeated rush of air is forced over the ember, which helps restore better combustion and keeps the pipe burning (or at least that's the idea).


2. Another reason for covering the bowl is the presence of too much moisture in the stem or shank of the pipe. Moisture is an unavoidable byproduct of combustion, but if it builds up too much, it can cause the pipe to gurgle or surprise the smoker with a mouthful of nasty juice. A simple technique for dealing with this is to blow gently but steadily INTO the stem for a few moments. This pushes the moisture out of the stem/shank and down into the heel of the bowl where it will no longer present a problem during the smoke. Of course, this process of blowing into the stem will cause ashes and debris to fly out of the bowl, creating quite a mess. So the smoker will momentarily cover the bowl with his fingers to prevent this from happening.

Sanitizing an Estate Pipe Stem

Is there a quick and easy way to sanitize an estate pipe stem?

With this article I want to focus on the cleaning aspect of what I already talked about in my article on pipe stem sanitizing.

           Image source: rebornpipes.wordpress.com

When I refurbish pipes for myself or others, hygiene and safety is of the highest concern. For this reason, I go through several steps to thoroughly sanitize a stem or mouthpiece. But depending on the condition of the stem, there is a simple method, which I will describe here.

You will need some high-quality alcohol. In order to have a sterilizing effect, the alcohol content must be above 50%. I prefer to use Isopropyl Alcohol that is 91% alcohol. This ensures a "medical grade" sanitizing effect and evaporates quickly. It is also much less expensive than grain alcohol. You will also need some pipe cleaners and a small container in which to soak the stem.

• First, clean the stem by removing any debris and residue (tobacco bits, tar build-up, nicotine residue, etc.).
• Second, dip a pipe cleaner in the alcohol and run it through the stem. I recommend doing this several times and "scrubbing" as necessary. Bristle pipe cleaners work great for this step.
• Third, soak the stem in a bowl or container so that the stem is completely covered by the alcohol. I recommend soaking it for about 15 minutes (or longer if necessary to dissolve residue). If the alcohol discolors during the soak, that means tar and other residue were being dissolved by the alcohol. If this occurs, discard the alcohol and scrub the stem with some more pipe cleaners. Then fill the container with fresh alcohol and perform the soak again. This way you are ensured of a truly clean and sanitized stem.
• Once finished with the soaking. Simply rinse the stem in cold water and dry it off. It should now be completely sanitized!

How to Break In a New Pipe

Recommendations to break-in a new pipe

Not everyone agrees about the “perfect” technique for breaking in pipes. Some smokers even believe there is no need to break-in a pipe, simply fill it up and smoke it. While I agree that there is freedom to do what works best for you, I recommend the simple break-in method outlined below. But first, here are a couple quick remarks about the purpose of the break-in process:

Even when briar has been dried and treated, it still retains a certain amount of sap, resin, and natural acids. These things affect the ability of the wood to absorb moisture, withstand heat, etc. They also can impart a flavor to the tobacco as you smoke it. The break-in process helps to rid the wood of these remaining substances, making it more pleasant to smoke.

         You need to ream the caking, or this will happen

         Image source: rebornpipes.wordpress.com

In order to protect the bowl from the heat of burning tobacco and to aid in the absorption of moisture that results from combustion, it is important to develop a carbon cake inside the tobacco chamber. The break-in process helps to properly develop this carbon cake, which is simply a layer of charred residue that builds up inside the bowl as tobacco is burned.

With these simple factors in mind, I’ll briefly describe how you can break-in a pipe and begin the “seasoning” of the briar. Here is a simple method that will help you to break-in a new (or refurbished) pipe.

I do not recommend coating the inside of the tobacco chamber with honey, alcohol, or water. Instead, start with a full bowl of loosely packed tobacco. Of course it must be packed tightly enough to burn, but pack it more loosely than usual. Some people will prefer to start with only a third or half a bowl and slowly build it up to a full bowl over four or five smokes, but this is not necessary. As long as you smoke slowly and gently, the amount of tobacco in the bowl really makes no difference, so simply decide which is more appropriate for you.

As I noted above, the most important factor for breaking in a pipe is that you smoke slowly, making sure that the pipe does not overheat, and that you smoke all the way down to the bottom of the bowl. If possible, it is desirable to burn all the tobacco to the bottom of the bowl. This will help develop a cake in the heel of the bowl.

So fill your pipe loosely, sit back and enjoy your first smoke. Do not hurry. If the pipe gets too hot, put it aside, and let it cool down. It does not matter if your pipe goes out, just relight it and continue to smoke slowly all the way down to the bottom. When you’ve finished burning all the tobacco (this may require several relights), then loosen the grey ash with a pipe tool and while covering the top of the bowl with your fingers or hand, shake the pipe a few times. This action will spread and deposit fine ash on the walls inside the bowl and will help to build up a nice cake more quickly. Remove the remains of the ashes from the bowl.

Once your pipe cools down, be sure to clean it thoroughly and then allow the pipe to rest before smoking it again. Keeping your pipe dry and clean is the secret to an enjoyable smoking experience.

Pipe smoking is often called the "art of patience"; it is intended to be a pleasure that you savor and enjoy. So don't be in a hurry and try not to get intimidated by the details. Just try to form good habits and take good care of your pipes. You'll be rewarded by a great smoke and lifetime of happy puffing.

Tobacco Pipe Carbon Cake

What is carbon cake and how long does it take to develop?

Developing a good cake can take quite some time, so they key ingredient is patience! Beyond that, there are several factors that affect cake development, such as the tobacco you smoke, the briar itself, and your own smoking habits. Because of these and other variables, there is no standard time frame in which a cake develops, and each pipe will likely take a different amount of time.

Some pipes may begin developing a cake after only a few bowls. But it's more common to take far longer. Depending on your smoking frequency, it's not uncommon to smoke ten, twenty, or thirty bowls before you notice the evidence of a carbon cake beginning to form. I've seen some pipes take over a hundred bowls before they developed a decent carbon lining in the bowl.

New smokers often wonder what the cake looks like. Once the cake starts forming, it will be unmistakable. It is a hard, black residue that lines the inner walls of the bowl. In appearance, it looks like a thin layer of coal. After a cake begins to form, it's simply a matter of managing it by careful reaming to maintain the desired thickness. As a general rule of thumb, the cake should be kept at the thickness of a dime, or about 1-3 millimeters. If it gets too thick, it can actually crack the bowl of your pipe, because it expands at a different rate than the briar. Typically, you normally don't want to completely ream the bowl (unless you are restoring pipes), since you would then have to break it in all over again.

One of the most common problem areas for cake development is bottom of the tobacco chamber. This is where moisture tends to pool during a smoke. This makes the tobacco in the heel of the bowl difficult to burn and many folks understandably dump it out rather than fry their tongues trying to burn it to ash. This combination of moisture and unburned tobacco greatly retard or even prevent the development of carbon at the bottom of the tobacco chamber.

Another common problem is the cake forming unevenly. If the cake is thicker in some spots than in others, it's a good idea to ream the cake to make it even. If left to develop unevenly over time, it can create a bottleneck effect, making it difficult to fill and clean the bowl. As noted above, the uneven cake can also produce adverse effects on the briar due to expansion and contraction during combustion.

Although it is desirable to develop an even carbon layer throughout the bowl, it should not be something that detracts from your enjoyment of pipe smoking. Many folks spend far too much time being concerned about this. Remember, you didn't start smoking so that you could go around developing carbon cake inside pipe bowls! Hopefully, you chose to smoke because you enjoy it for various reasons. The carbon cake, while important, shouldn't become a matter that you obsess about. Simply enjoy your pipes, and the cake will develop naturally over time. If it isn't perfect, don't worry; it can be easily maintained with a simple pipe reamer.

Below are a couple photos of a pipe with clearly developed carbon cake. These photos are not perfect guideline examples, but they will give you some concrete idea of what the carbon cake looks like.

This pipe has a damaged and charred rim--something that can be avoided by exercising care with your pipes. It is NOT necessary to have carbon build-up on the rim in order to develop cake in the bowl. A little care and regular cleaning can keep the rim looking good.

Pipe Flaws and Burnout

Should you be worried about chips, pits, and flaws in your pipe? Can these lead to a burnout?

Nearly every briar pipe has some sort of natural flaw, such as minor pits, splits, or other imperfections in the wood. Often these imperfections are so tiny they cannot be seen with the naked eye, and the craftsman will also take measures to make them "invisible" through adroit shaping, use of rustication, sandblasting, etc. However, if the imperfections are too large they affect not only the aesthetics, but, much worse, the smokability of the pipe.

         Image source: pipesmagazine.com


It's very difficult to give specific advice about a pipe without being able to examine it. But if you detect a crack in the briar that is clearly visible, it could indicate a potential problem.

A burnout occurs when overheating causes a hole to be burned completely through the wood. Cracks and splits can also occur due to overheating, but they are technically not considered burnouts. If the briar was improperly cured, or if it has been improperly cared for, the heat and moisture absorption can cause the wood to expand excessively and split.

Also, the temperature of the bowl is very significant. If the pipe becomes uncomfortable to hold, it is definitely burning too hot. Most often this is a result of improper smoking technique, but it can sometimes be caused by the qualities of the briar or pipe design itself. In either case, if the bowl becomes too hot, it is definitely time to set the pipe down. Some folks say if you cannot comfortably hold the pipe against your face, then it is too hot. In such cases, simply let it go out and cool down a bit before relighting.

If the crack in your pipe worsens, the pipe may be rendered unsmokable. But in many cases, a skilled pipe repairman can restore the pipe to smokable condition. The cost will vary depending on the necessary repairs, but if it is a favorite pipe or one with high value, the expense can easily be justified.

Adjusting Butane Lighter Flame for Tobaco Pipe

So you can't adjust the flame on you butane lighter. Suggestions.

Since every company uses a unique system for adjusting the flame of the lighter, it is difficult to offer suggestions about your specific lighter.

Occasionally, I have found it necessary to disassemble a lighter and make corrections to the adjustment mechanism. Although it's not an overly technical process, it would be very difficult to describe it here, especially without details concerning your particular lighter.

However, it is far more common to encounter problems caused by the need for a thorough cleaning or proper refilling. This is especially true with refillable lighters that have been in use for several years. Assuming your lighter does not have an actual mechanical problem with its internal fittings (which would require repair or replacement), here are some general tips and suggestions that may help resolve the issues you're experiencing:

• Completely bleed the air and any remaining butane from the lighter before refilling. Do this by carefully depressing the filling nozzle on the lighter with a small tool. You will hear a hissing sound as air and small amounts of butane are expelled. Repeat until the hissing stops. Be careful not to bend or damage the nozzle, which will prevent proper filling.
• Use compressed air to clean out the flame nozzle of the lighter.
• Use a cotton swap dipped in alcohol to clean and remove soot buildup on the lighter. This will help clear out any residue or debris that may prevent the lighter from working properly.
• Turn the flame adjustment knob back and forth several times through its entire range of motion. Then place it to a medium setting before refilling or using it.
• When filling the lighter, be careful not overfill with butane. Depress the butane canister on the lighter for 1-3 seconds, then release. Repeat this 2-3 times until the lighter is filled.
• Do not use the lighter immediately after filling. The filling process causes the internal nozzles and gas fittings to become very cold, and the lighter becomes "frozen," so to speak. Simply wait five to ten minutes until the lighter has reached room temperature before trying to use it.

Tobacco and Pipe Flavor

Can tobacco permanently affect the flavor or aroma of a pipe?

Over time, every tobacco will leave a residual flavor/aroma in your briar pipe (meerschaum tends to be less affected). Unless it is an excessively strong tobacco, it won't occur in just a few bowls, but the pipe will eventually become "seasoned" with the flavors and aromas of the tobacco you smoke in it.

                              Image Source: www.notsoboringlife.com

Sometimes a pipe smoker will try a new blend several times before deciding he doesn't like it. If an unwanted aroma or flavor is detectable, a good cleaning with alcohol and pipe cleaners will usually take care of it. Also, the unwanted taste/smell will usually fade quickly once you start smoking a different tobacco in the pipe.

In a worst case scenario, if the offending tobacco was especially potent, you could perform the salt and alcohol treatment to more aggressively remove unwanted flavors or aromas. (You will read about how to perform the salt and alcohol treatment in a future post I am writing).

The fact that tobacco eventually flavors a pipe is a major reason why many smokers prefer to own at least several pipes. This way each pipe can be dedicated to different tobacco types and prevents unwanted "tainting" or "cross-over" flavoring. (You can read more about the practice of dedicating pipes to specific blends here.)

Smoking Pipe in Cold Weather

Will smoking in cold weather damage your pipe?

Smoking outdoors in cold weather may be uncomfortable, but it doesn't pose any direct harm to your briar pipe (meerschaum is another story; see below). Although it's safe to smoke a briar pipe in cold temperatures, there are a couple things to keep in mind.

First, even though it won't directly damage your pipe, the cold temperatures can make the briar and stem material more brittle and susceptible to breakage. So you'll want to handle your pipe with extra care while smoking in cold weather.

Second, the increased difference in temperature between your lit pipe and the cold air will result in greater amounts of condensation in the shank and stem. This may cause your pipe to "gurgle" while you're smoking it. If so, simply run a fluffy pipe cleaner through the stem and into the shank to absorb some of the moisture; then continue smoking. (Remember, never separate the stem from the shank while your pipe is hot. It will cause the stem to become loose over time.)

When it comes to meerschaum pipes, I do not recommend cold weather smoking. Although it has never happened to me, I have heard horror stories about meerschaum pipes splitting open or even "imploding" (as one man described it) when smoked in cold weather. Even if your pipe didn't blow-up in your teeth like a cartoon gag, the cold temperatures would dramatically increase the likelihood of accidental damage, since meerschaum is far more fragile than briar to begin with.

Drying Moist Pipe Tobacco

How do I dry tobacco that is too wet or moist?

Every pipe smoker has encountered difficulties with a tobacco that is too wet.

                Image source: pipesmagazine.com

Tobacco with too much moisture is difficult to light and frustrating to keep burning. This often leads to frantic puffing and the dreaded tongue bite. And if one has success with the burning, wet tobacco can leave a goopy mess in the bowl, which is undesirable.

There are perhaps countless ways that smokers have devised to dry out their tobacco. Below I present a very simple method recommended by various experts for giving your tobacco a "moisture adjustment."

• Remove the desired amount of tobacco from the tin, pouch, or container.
• Place it on a sheet of paper and spread it out in a uniform layer (avoid piles or bundles of tobacco).
• Allow the tobacco to air dry until it has reached the desired moisture level. Repeat the test noted above to determine a desirable moisture level.
• Depending on the tobacco cut and original moisture content, this can take anywhere from a few minutes to several hours. Also, bear in mind that weather conditions, particularly humidity levels can dramatically affect the drying process.

Pipe Buffing Machine

What kind of buffing machine to use for working on pipes

When I first began pipe crafting, I did all my work by hand using sandpaper, micro mesh pads, and so on. But after a while, I definitely saw the benefit of a good buffing machine. But wishing to save money, I bought an inexpensive buffing machine from eBay. It was actually a jeweler's polisher made by Rand with a "no load" motor and 4" wheels.

                            Image source: www.rockford-industrial.com

Although the Rand machine was functional, I would say that it was barely adequate for pipes. It worked moderately well for applying carnauba wax, but it was atrociously under-powered for any real polishing. For example, because it is a no-load motor designed for use with delicate jewelry, it could not sustain the necessary pressure to remove oxidation from a stem or to actually polish wood for refinishing, etc. The Rand served my purposes for a short while, but it quickly became apparent that it was not going to do the job long term.

                     Image source: turnerpipes.wordpress.com

Since I recondition estate pipes on a regular basis, I ended up purchasing an industrial strength buffing machine. It's not the top of the line model, but it is a top of the line brand: Baldor. According to my research, Baldor makes some of the best buffing equipment in the world, and the six inch, 1800 RPM model I own is fantastic! Of course, it cost substantially more than the Rand, but it was well worth the money. (The Rand was around $50; the Baldor around $300.)

Savinelli Balsa System and Pipe Issues

Will the Savinelli Balsa System eliminate tongue bite and other troublesome issues?

Talking about the practical, "real world" effectiveness of the Savinelli balsa system here. I have used the system for many years. In my experience, the balsa system is by far the very best option available, especially when compared to other filtering or "condenser" systems.

             Image source: firecured.blogspot.it

As specified in other posts, the balsa system has been tested by independent companies and was found to be highly effective at removing unwanted components from the smoke. This is important if one wishes to minimize the potential harmful nature of smoking. And as nature's most absorbent wood, the balsa also does a great job trapping excess moisture, which helps keep the smoke cool and dry.

However, no filter system in the world can completely prevent tongue bite or keep the smoke cool if proper smoking technique isn't used. For example, if one were to puff ferociously on their pipe, it would almost certainly burn too hotly, resulting in tongue bite. Or if one chooses to smoke tobacco that is very moist, the extra moisture will undoubtedly result in a wet smoking experience or gurgling pipe. Or if one were to smoke his pipe in extremely windy conditions, the ember could be stoked excessively, creating pipe burnout. In other words, there is no substitute for learning proper technique and smoking one's pipe slowly and gently.

So what's the bottom line? Pipe makers and companies have been seeking the ultimate solution to tongue bite and wet smokes for decades. Every product is advertised as though it is the perfect fix. The truth of the matter is that experience and patience are the best solution to the common issues of pipe smoking. It's true, the balsa filters are helpful, and they can reduce some of the difficulties people experience when smoking a pipe. But they are not a "magic cure." If someone experiences severe problems when smoking a pipe, it is unlikely that the balsa system (or any other system) will instantly solve the problems.

Smoking Pipe to The Bottom

I'm having trouble smoking to the bottom of the bowl and can't develop cake in the heel of my pipe. Can you offer any tips or advice?

It is a common refrain among pipe smokers that "you must smoke all the way to the bottom of the bowl." To some, it seems this adage is the "prime directive" or "first commandment" of pipe smoking. They act as if failure to burn all the tobacco in your pipe will result in severe penalty or loss of life and limb. Perhaps secret agents of the "Cake-Building Task Force" will hunt you down and force you to eat the dottle from a thousand pipes. But I laugh in the face of such danger and boldly challenge the necessity of building "heel cake"!

         Image source: pipesmagazine.com

Melodrama aside, I believe far too much is made of this issue. There is only one factor that should compel you to smoke to the bottom of the bowl: your enjoyment of the tobacco. If your pleasure diminishes at any point along the way, you should feel free to stop. If your tongue becomes sore, if the flavor becomes unpleasant, if you run out of time, or if you simply want to show your spite for this stupid "rule," then by all means stop smoking and dump out the dottle!

I can already hear the naysayers: "But what about building cake at the heel of the bowl?" Well, what about it? Not a single one of the pipes in my collection has ever developed cake at the bottom of the bowl. And yet I've never experienced a single adverse effect due to this fact. After breaking them in, my pipes smoke beautifully, are flavorful, and I've never experienced a burn out due to lack of heel cake development.

Obviously, there's nothing wrong with building cake at the heel of the pipe bowl. And if you're able to regularly burn the tobacco down to the bottom, that's great! But many folks find it difficult to do so, and they shouldn't have to feel guilty about it.

There are several reasons that contribute to the difficulty. Some reasons are self-evident and others are more difficult to identify. Moisture content of the tobacco, personal smoking habits (are you a drooler?), shape of the pipe (some are more prone to collecting moisture), briar quality (more or less absorbent), and even weather conditions can affect how well a particular bowl may burn.

Of course, even moist dottle will still burn if it gets hot enough. However, trying feverishly to reduce every bit of tobacco to ash can make you feel like you have a mouthful of hot lava. But if you insist on burning to the bottom, try taking frequent breaks to let your pipe cool. Then relight and smoke a little until it gets too hot again.

Some prefer to dump out the ash and let the pipe and tobacco rest overnight. This allows some additional drying time for the moist dottle. Then light up the dottle the following day and keep burning. This approach may work effectively, but many tobaccos taste poorly on relights. If your favorite blend retains its flavor, or if you're a glutton for punishment, then this approach may work fine for you.

You could also try dehydrating the tobacco until it is as dry as dust. This may produce adverse affects in terms of flavor and comfort, but if getting to the bottom of the bowl is your primary concern, removing as much moisture as possible will certainly aide in the goal.

These methods are, indeed, tedious. But if you feel compelled to persevere, it will likely pay off in the end. If you smoke it, cake will come.

But if you share my perspective that heel cake is vastly overrated, it simply may be time to acknowledge that life will continue just fine if you dump out the dottle and move on.

Sanitizing Estate Pipe Stems

Is it really necessary to sanitize the stems of estate pipes? How do you sanitize a pipe stem?

Because personal hygiene and safety is important to me, I strongly recommend a thorough cleaning and sanitizing for all estate pipes. Not only is it much safer, but it will result in a more enjoyable smoke.

            Image source: pipesmagazine.com

Used pipes, no matter how well they were cared for, always tend to have carbon, tar, and other residue in the bowl, shank, and stem. This can adversely affect the pipe in a variety of ways. For example, the draw of the pipe may be difficult because of restricted airflow. This would result in a poor smoking pipe that frustrates more than it rewards. An unclean pipe also dramatically affects the taste of the smoke since you'll be picking up the "ghost" flavors from the tobacco smoked by the previous owner. I've received some estate pipes that looked fine on the outside but that were utterly disgusting on the inside. The shanks were befouled with dripping, oozing residue, and the draft/air hole was completely cemented solid with tar. Others have had filters in them that must have been used for a million smokes. They were completely black and turned to dust when I removed them.

Simply sanitizing a stem will certainly help, but it won't necessarily eliminate all the other potential issues. But to sanitize a stem, I recommend using a high-quality, medical grade Isopropyl alcohol. It should have an alcohol content of at least 70%, but I recommend even higher if possible. This will kill any bacteria, molds, etc. and ensure a sanitizing effect. Before soaking the stem, I strongly encourage you to scrub the airway or draft hole with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in the same alcohol. When the pipe cleaner comes out perfectly clean, you're ready for the sanitizing alcohol soak. Fill a small bowl or container with enough alcohol to submerge the stem and let it soak for at least several hours. It's true that the alcohol will do it's job killing germs in less time. But I prefer to soak stems longer to help loosen up and dissolve any residue that may be coating the inside of the draft hole. Periodically during the soak, pull the stem out and run a pipe cleaner or two through it to help remove any residue that is being dissolved or dislodged by the alcohol.

Typically, when I refurbish estate pipes, I do additional cleaning and sanitizing steps on the stems. One such step involves chlorine bleach, which also removes oxidation on vulcanite stems. But this produces a chemical reaction that will make the stem rough to the touch and requires sanding and polishing to restore the shine. If the stem is not properly protected, the bleach will also dissolve trademark logos or even erode the tenon enough to make it fit loosely into the mortise/shank. The point is, some pipes may need additional steps to make them enjoyable to smoke.

For those who do not wish to do the work themselves, there are professionals that would be happy to provide refurbishing services. Fees start around $25.00 per pipe, and vary depending on the condition of the pipe and exactly what work they'll be performing

Tightening a Loose Pipe Stem

How can I tighten a loose stem on my pipe?

Assuming the stem is not damaged or in need of repair, there are several common methods that can be used to correct a troublesome loose stem. You don't need to use them all, but I've listed several different options. Please note that the techniques below will only work with a push/pull tenon; they should NOT be used with threaded or screw-in tenon.

1. Use the shank end of a drill bit to slightly enlarge the tenon, which will make it fit more snugly in the mortise. Use a drill bit that is JUST BARELY larger than the air hole in the tenon. If you expand the tenon too much, you can crack or damage your pipe when trying to reinstall the stem. The expanding is done by carefully and briefly heating up the tenon with a heat source, such as a hair dryer, candle, or lighter. Be VERY CAREFUL not to overheat the stem material causing it to warp or melt. Once heated, insert the shank (non-drilling) end of a drill bit into the air hole of the tenon. Insert it only the length of the tenon to expand it. Then immediately dip the tenon in ice water before removing the expanding tool. This will "lock in" the new size and prevent the tenon from "shrinking" back to smaller size. Use a pliers to remove the drill bit, twisting as necessary. Then dry the stem and reinsert it into the mortise.
    
2. Use clear nail polish to paint the surface of the tenon and let it dry completely before smoking. This will add a layer of thickness which can be gently sanded if the fit becomes too tight.
    
3. Coat the tenon with beeswax (or candle wax) and then smoke the pipe. When warmed by smoking, the wax will be absorbed into the wood and cause it to swell to tighten up the fit. Use the wax sparingly so you don't inadvertently tighten things up too much. You can always add a second application of wax if necessary.
    
4. Use a q-tip to slightly moisten the wood on the inside of the shank just prior to smoking. The moisture and heat will cause the shank to swell and may tighten up the fit. (I have not personally used this fourth method, but others have had good experiences with it.)

Pipe Filters and Comfortable Smoking

Do pipe filters actually provide a cooler, drier smoke?

Moisture and heat are definitely major culprits in producing painful tongue bite and other oral irritations. In light of this, anything that decreases the amount of moisture that reaches the tongue and mouth will certainly help reduce any related discomforts.

              Images sources: talkingtobacco.com tobaccoblends.com.au delnobilepipe.com

There are quite a few different types of filters available, such as balsa, paper, charcoal, metal condensers, and more.

Many companies have developed their own unique approach to filtering systems. For example, the E. A. Carey company developed the Carey "Magic Inch" System, which uses Papyrate sleeves to provide a cool, dry smoke. Brigham pipes use a special wooden filter made of Rock Maple, which supposedly offers an "extra inch of wood" to help absorb moisture and impurities. For many years, Kaywoodie has used a "Drinkless System" for their pipes. This system uses a built-in metal condenser, called a "Stinger," to trap moisture and debris before it reaches the mouth. A couple different companies have also developed absorbent crystals, such as the Denicool Crystals, that are added to the bottom of the pipe bowl before adding tobacco. Many users report these crystals work quite well and help make the smoke cooler and drier. And there is the famous Peterson System, which isn't really a filter, but a reservoir designed to give a dry smoke by allowing moisture to collect outside of the normal airway of the pipe.

Of those I've tried personally, I prefer the Savinelli Balsa System. It's simple, elegant, and quite effective. The small, triangular balsa filter absorbs both moisture and impurities from smoke without the addition of chemical elements. This helps to ensure a clean pipe shank and a more pleasant, safer smoke.

Bad Taste while Smoking a Tobacco Pipe

What causes a bitter, chemical taste when smoking a particular pipe?

When it comes to matters of taste, it can be very difficult to identify the source of the problem. What seems bitter or sour to one smoker, may be completely undetectable to another. And sometimes our mouths go through a "funk" (for example, after having a cold) that can affect how everything tastes. But there are several common causes that I can mention.

The number one suspect for odd flavors when smoking a pipe is the tobacco itself. I can't tell you how many times I've purchased a tobacco--even one that I had smoked before and it was fine--only to have it leave a terrible chemical taste in my mouth. Even though this may seem self-evident, be sure to try more than one tobacco in the pipe, just to make sure it's not an anomaly with the tobacco.

Strange tastes can also be caused by the pre-carbon material used to coat the inside of the bowl. Every company has a different "recipe" for those coatings, and sometimes they just get it wrong. If you suspect this is the cause, wrap a piece of sandpaper around a wooden dowel and carefully sand the inside of the tobacco chamber until the carbon coating is completely gone.

I once experienced an odd flavor with a tried and true Savinelli pipe that had already been broken in. Believe it or not, it turned out to be the balsa filters! I'm not sure what the problem was, but one particular package of filters contributed a very bitter, sour taste to every smoke. When I figured out it was the filters, I simply discarded them and used a different package. If you're using the balsa filters, you could test this by smoking the pipe without filters using the converter tube.

Odd, unpleasant flavors can also be caused by the stain used on pipes. Sometimes during crafting, the stain will inadvertently get inside the bowl or shank of the pipe. This can create bitter or chemical flavors during smoking. This is common with Peterson of Dublin pipes, since they dip the entire pipe into the stain rather than brushing it on. In such cases, the sandpaper/dowel method works well for removing stain from the bowl. But getting it out of the shank can be tricky, since you can't sand the inside of the shank without altering the mortise/tenon fitting. Even without sanding, it will eventually wear off, but it may take quite a while.

Lastly, I'll mention one other possible cause that is much more rare. The strange taste/flavor could be from the wood itself. Since briar is a natural product, it's always possible that the wood may have an inherent bitter taste due to saps, resins, or tannins that didn't get completely removed during the curing process. This can be more difficult to overcome, depending on the severity of the case. Many who experience this say that it takes a very long time to smoke out the foul taste.

Metal Piece in Pipe Stem: Stinger or Condenser

What is the metal piece in the stem of my pipe? I've heard it's called a Stinger or Condenser.

The metal piece in some pipes, most noteably those made by Kaywoodie, is called a "Stinger" and is part of the Kaywoodie "Drinkless" system.

Some refer to the "Stinger" as a filter, but technically that isn't correct. It is more accurately described as a "condenser." It is designed to serve two primary functions:

1. it blocks small bits of tobacco from traveling down through the stem into the mouth
2. it attracts or collects moisture, supposedly resulting in a drier, cooler smoke.

Although Kaywoodie is attributed with creating the first metal condenser, many other companies utilize similar devices in their pipes in an effort to create a more pleasant smoking experience. The photos below show various types of condensers.

           Standard Kaywoodie condenser screw-in tenon

         Image source: briarfiles.blogspot.com

            Stinger Condenser (push tenon)

         Image source: pipesmagazine.com

Pipe Filters

Can I use filters in any pipe? Or does it require a specific kind of pipe?

In order to use pipe filters of any kind (balsa, charcoal, paper, etc.), the pipe must be designed specifically to accept filters. This means the pipe must have a "filter chamber" bored into the airway. This is nothing more than an enlarged area of the shank or stem were a filter can be placed during the smoke. Standard bore pipes do not have such a chamber and cannot accommodate filters.

                 Images sources: talkingtobacco.com tobaccoblends.com.au delnobilepipe.com

Also, different companies and craftsmen design their pipes to accept filters of different sizes. The most common filter diameters are 6mm and 9mm. The lengths of filters varies depending on the type of filter. Many pipes that have filter chambers that will accommodate filters from various companies. For example, Savinelli pipes are designed to use Savinelli's famous "Balsa System" filters, but the pipes will also accept Dr. Grabow brand paper filters. (The balsa system is far superior, in my opinion, but in a pinch it's good to have options.)

Most online pipe shops clearly indicate whether or not specific pipes use filters. The vast majority of pipes sold in the United States are non-filtered pipes. So as a general rule, if a listing doesn't specifically say the pipe uses filters, it probably doesn't. However, in European countries, filter pipes are far more popular and even required by law in some countries.

Thorough Pipe Cleaning Tips

Pipes need a basic cleaning after every smoke, but some need a more thorough cleaning. Recommendations.

         Pipe caking gone wrong!

        Image source: www.brothersofbriar.com

After every 10 to 20 smokes (depends on the pipe and type of tobacco I smoke in it), I perform the following cleaning regimen:

1. Use bristle pipe cleaners dipped in alcohol (Rum or Vodka work very well, or you can also use 91% isopropyl alcohol) to thoroughly scrub the shank and stem of your pipe. Make sure you remove any tar residue or other build up. This is what makes a pipe taste "sour."
2. If the cake is becoming too thick, you should also carefully ream the bowl so the cake is about the thickness of a dime. If the cake gets too thick, it not only reduces the size of the tobacco chamber, it can actually damage your pipe by causing it to split the briar. (Note: If you completely ream the bowl and remove the entire cake, you will need to "break in" your pipe again. This isn't a problem for the pipe, but many smokers do not like to go through the process again.)
3. Use a dry microfiber cloth to clean and scrub the outside of the bowl. If there are deep stains, you can very lightly wet the microfiber cloth to help it clean better. But don't get the briar overly wet, since this is not good for the wood. 4) If you have carbon build-up or light charring around the rim, you can use a cotton swap dipped in alcohol to loosen and break up the carbon. Then wipe with a cloth. (But be careful! The alcohol can remove stain or cause it to fade.)
4. If there are metal bands or accents on your pipe, use a microfiber cloth to clean them. If necessary, carefully apply an appropriate metal polish to remove tarnish and restore lustre. (Again, be careful! Such polishes can damage the briar.)
5. If possible, buff the entire pipe and stem with a fresh coat of carnauba wax (this requires a buffing wheel). If you don't have a buffing wheel, check with your local tobacconist. They may be able to wax your pipe for just a few bucks. If this can't be done, simply rub your pipe with soft cloth to restore as much shine as possible. Some folks use furniture polish, but I do not recommend this for pipes. The chemicals in the polish can actually damage the wood and may produce strange aromas when the pipe becomes hot from smoking.

When performed periodically, as needed, these procedures will ensure that your pipe looks and tastes great!